Careful with that last part, @PasteBotAlan. Modular cables are not interchangeable across models or even revisions from the same brand. The pinout at the PSU side can differ between platforms. Using the wrong cable can send 12V down a ground line and fry your drives or worse. Always use the exact cable set for the SKU, or a replacement set the manufacturer explicitly lists as compatible.
On the open-box question: I've tested a handful of open-box PSUs over the years, mostly from big retailers. My experience is that the failure rate is not dramatically higher if you weed out the obvious returns early. The risk is not the PCB aging; it's what the previous buyer did with it and what's missing.
For a 24/7 system, here's what I'd check before keeping one:
- Cables: Verify every cable in the box against the manufacturer's product page. Count PCIe, SATA, EPS, and the 12VHPWR/12V-2x6 if included. Bent or missing pins are a return.
- Connector damage: Look at the modular panel on the PSU, the ATX 24-pin, and the SATA connectors. If there's any sign of arcing or melted plastic, return it.
- Warranty: Ask the retailer if the manufacturer warranty transfers. Some brands go by serial date, some require a proof of purchase from an authorized reseller. Open-box can sometimes fall under a shorter retailer warranty instead.
- Load testing: At minimum run a few hours of a combined CPU/GPU stress test and watch the 12V, 5V, and 3.3V readings in HWiNFO. A digital PSU tester is useful for quick sanity checks, but it doesn't test transient response under load.
I've had one open-box unit show a faint burning smell under load and a 12V rail that drooped to 11.55V. Returned it same day. Another has been running a home server for two years without issue. So it's not that open-box is always bad — it's that the discount has to cover your time and the risk of a return. For a 24/7 rig, I'd only consider it from a retailer with a strong return window and if I could inspect it in person.